Planting and Caring for Your Blue Seal® Lawn
Planting Time
The two best times in the Northeast to plant lawn seed are mid-August through September, and early spring before the trees leaf out. In the Mid-Atlantic states, the optimum planting time starts earlier in the spring and lasts longer into the fall. Fall planting offers several advantages over spring. The soil is warmer, encouraging better germination. Weeds are less of a factor. Fall temperatures favor the growth of cool-season grasses, and establishment of root systems which can withstand the following summer’s heat and drought stress.
Soil Test
A soil test is the best way to determine lime and fertilizer requirements. Most states offer this service through County Extension offices. You can also obtain home test kits at your Blue Seal dealer.
Seed Bed Preparation
Soil preparation depends on whether you are creating a new lawn or overseeding an existing one.
New Lawns
Remove construction debris, rocks, etc. from the site. Establish the final grade, ensuring the ground slopes away from the house. Apply lime at the rates determined by the soil test. In the absence of a soil test, apply the general recommendation of 50 lbs. of lime per 1,000 square feet. Till or spade the area to a depth of 4”-6” to loosen the soil and incorporate the soil amendments. Spread a starter type lawn fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s directions. Rake and level. Now you are ready to plant!
Overseeding
If at least 50% of your lawn is desirable grasses, you may opt to overseed rather than till it up and start from scratch. Seed needs direct contact with soil in order to germinate. Therefore, your first step is to remove the build-up of dead vegetation on your lawn. Seed which is sprinkled on top of a lawn with no preparation will give poor results. Mow the area closely. Remove thatch and weeds with a hand rake or power implement. This procedure will expose and loosen the soil in between desirable grasses. Apply lime and fertilizers at recommended rates. Now you’re ready to plant!
Sowing the Seed
Spread the seed uniformly at the recommended rate. For better results, divide the seed in half. Spread one half in one direction and the second half in the opposite direction at a right angle. Rake, drag or roll the area lightly to embed the seed 1/8”-1/4”. There is no need to bury the seed - some seed should be visible on the surface. A light mulch will retain moisture and help prevent the seeds from washing away. This is particularly helpful on slopes.
Watering
Improper watering is the biggest cause of failure in planting lawn seed! The seeds must be kept constantly moist (not soaked!) until they sprout. Water lightly once or twice a day until the seedlings emerge. Never allow the soil to dry completely.
After emergence, water daily until the new grass has been mowed 3 times. Then treat as an established lawn, watering 1” a week in 1 or 2 sessions.
Mowing
Mowing too soon is another cause of new lawn problems! Wait until the seedlings have grown 1/3 higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, this means wait until the grass is 3” high before the first mowing, then cut to 2”.
Tips for Maintaining a Beautiful Lawn
- Wait until after the third mowing before applying a lawn safe weed killer to the new grass. You may also apply additional fertilizer at this time.
- Do not remove more than 1/3 of the established grass blade when mowing. Keep the mower blade sharp to avoid damaging the grass and inviting disease.
- Lawns with a deep root system are less susceptible to damage from drought. Watering established lawns infrequently and heavily encourages a deep root system. Most established cool-season grasses perform well with 1” of water per week. When the soil is dry at 4”-6” below the surface, your lawn needs watering.